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Trimming Sugar Glider Nails

July 11th, 2008

Sugar gliders have sharp and long nails, and their nails help them to hang onto tree branches as they climb and jump. Their nails can be dangerous and can make punctures on your skin when you allow them to play. Their scratches can lead to bacteria into your skin that can, in turn, cause dermatitis. That’s why veterinarians recommend trimming the nails of sugar gliders on a regular basis.

Trimming nails of sugar gliders requires extra care and attention, because their nails are soft and a little misshap can cause bleeding and frighten the glider. Two people are required for the nail trimming of a sugar glider along with the following equipment:

• Some towels
• Nail cutters
• An additional person, if possible
• Corn starch or any other type of coagulant

It is recommended that you trim the nails of sugar gliders in the morning. At that time they are tired and want to sleep. During the first and second nail cutting attempts, the sugar gliders may cause problems during trimming, but a regular trimming schedule will help them grow accustomed to getting their nails clipped.

To hold the sugar glider, use a towel but do not grasp the gilder too tightly, because this will frighten him. If your sugar glider is causing problems during trimming, cover the head of the glider, because this will reduce stress. Once you hold the glider properly, then cut the nails from the very end with a clipper. But make sure that you do not cut the nails too much. This will cause the sugar glider to bleed. If this happens, then you must use something to stop the sugar glider from bleeding

There are many other ways to control the growth of your gliders nails. Products like Nail-o-Matic, and Pet-0-Cure can help to keep your sugar gliders’ nails down to size. a

What a Professional Dog Trainer Can Do For You and Your Dog

June 10th, 2008

If you are wondering what exactly a professional dog trainer can do for you and your dog, you will want to continue to read. A professional dog trainer can make the life of living with your not so pleasant dog better. Of course all dogs are pleasant, but their bad habits may sometimes be atrocious. Hiring a professional to train your dog may be the answer to your problems. People hire professionals to do this on a daily basis. Every day of the year, someone is looking for a trainer for their dog. Most dogs have annoying bad habits that they just cannot help.

A professional dog trainer will break your loving pet of those bad habits. No matter how bad those habits might be, a professional trainer can make it possible to live with your pet in peace, once again. When you hire a professional to do the job of training your pet, you should get professional service. Once you have located your professional trainer, be honest with him and let him know all about the naughty acts that your dog performs. Letting him know the problems up front, so that he can work on each and every one of them, will make you a happy customer, and your dog a happier pet.

Finding a professional dog trainer is very simple. Do you take your dog to the local dog park? If so, try talking to some of the owners there that have dogs that behave. Ask them who their trainer was and get as much information as possible from them. You will feel better after knowing that the well-behaved dog in the park had bad habits also at one time. Rest assured that your dog’s habits will be broken as well, and before you know it, dog owners will be asking you who your trainer was.

Choosing a professional dog trainer can sometimes be tricky. Try talking to all of the trainers you are interested in. Maybe even let them meet your dog, and see how he reacts to each trainer. After all, you will want to get a trainer your dog will be comfortable with, because they will be spending a lot of time together.

Milton Harris, entrepreneur and owner of
www.certified-dog-trainer.info
and www.home-job-alert.com

Feeding of Kittens

April 27th, 2008

Milk Substitutes

Cow’s milk is sometimes erroneously thought to be a substitute
for queen’s milk However, analysis of cow’s milk shows that the
calcium-to-phosphorus ratio and lactose levels are too high, and
the energy, protein, and fat levels are too low to sustain a
growing kitten. Adding egg yolk (cooked over steam while
stirring) (creating enriched cow’s milk) increases the protein
and fat to more reasonable levels, but the calcium level remains
four times greater and the phosphorous level two times greater
than in queen’s milk. Enriched milk is an unsuitable substitute
for the long term, though it can be used temporarily until a
more appropriate milk replacer is obtained.

Commercial human baby formula, made up at twice the recommended
concentration, can be used on a short-term basis for kittens.
The percentage of nutrients in baby formula is similar to that
of cow’s milk, except that the lactose level is lower. However,
baby formula provides less than 50 percent of the protein and
fat that growing kittens require.

The best substitutes are commercial products such as KMR (PetAg,
Inc.), Havolac (Haver Co.), or Veta-Lac (Vet-A-Mix, Inc.), which
have been specifically formulated to closely match the nutrients
found in queen’s milk.

Feeding

Intake is limited by the size of the stomach, and excessive
fluid intake must be avoided because a newborn kitten’s kidneys
are functionally immature and have a very limited capacity.
Numerous feedings throughout the day, usually every four hours,
will prevent overloading the digestive system and kidneys. The
number of feedings can be decreased, and the intake per feeding
can be increased accordingly, as the kitten matures.

The daily intake of food is based on the kitten’s energy
requirement. Caloric requirements for the newborn kitten are
approximately 420 kilocalories per kilogram at birth, and by
five to six weeks of age it needs only 240 to 275 kilocalories
per kilogram. (A kilogram is 1000 grams, or 2.2 pounds. A
kilocalorie, a term often shortened to calorie by the
nonscientific community, is the amount of heat required to raise
the temperature of one kilogram of water one degree Celsius.) To
calculate the daily amount of milk replacer required for the
newborn follow these steps:

* Divide the kitten’s weight in grams by 1,000 to determine the
weight in kilograms.

* Multiply this number by 420 (kilocalories). The result
provides you with the number of kilocalories needed daily to
sustain the newborn kitten.

* Find the caloric concentration of the formula on the label.
Divide the amount needed by the kitten by the caloric
concentration of the milk replacer.

* Multiply the answer by the quantity of formula (in
milliliters) that supplies the specified caloric concentration.

* Take the total for the day and divide it by the number of
feedings per day.

Some milk replacers provide a feeding chart, which eliminates
the need to do any calculations. If KMR is used, do not exceed
five milliliters (one teaspoon) of formula per feeding of
newborn kittens for the first week. Thereafter, slowly increase
the amount per feeding.

Formula should not be fed to a weak and hypothermic kitten.
Instead, a dilute (5 percent) dextrose solution (sugar water)
and lactated Ringer’s solution (a sterile, saltwater solution
for injection) should be given orally as directed by a
veterinarian. Also, the kitten’s body temperature should be
gradually increased in a warm environment (85 to 90F). Formula
can be fed after the kitten’s rectal temperature is over 94F

When preparing formula, make up only enough for a
forty-eight-hour period and divide it into individual feeding
portions. These portions can be stored in the refrigerator.
Before feeding, warm the formula to about 100. While warming
the formula, sterilize the feeding utensils in boiling water for
fifteen minutes to destroy harmful bacteria or viruses. All
handlers should wash their hands before feeding or handling the
kittens.

Kittens that did not receive colostrum (first milk from the
mother) should be vaccinated against rhinotracheitis,
calicivirus, and panleukopenia at four weeks of age.

Special animal-feeding bottles are available at pet stores.
These bottles have been designed to meet the needs of nursing
kittens, but sometimes the nipple openings are too small. So, if
the liquid doesn’t drip slowly from the nipple, enlarge the hole
slightly. Never force formula by squeezing the bottle while the
nipple is in the kitten’s mouth. The liquid may be aspirated
(inhaled into the lungs), causing aspiration pneumonia, which
could be fatal. A medicine dropper can also be used, although
the volume will be greatly reduced, making feedings more tedious
and time consuming.

The kitten should be fed in an upright position to avoid its
aspirating any fluid into its lungs. Bottle-fed kittens must be
burped after feeding because of the air they inhale during
feeding. Stomach-tube feeding eliminates this step; however,
other problems are associated with tube feeding, especially the
danger of choking if fluid is directly dispensed into the lungs.

Despite the drawbacks, tube feeding is considered the most
reliable method for feeding kittens unable to suckle or needing
immediate nourishment. Tube-fed kittens should be housed in
separate compartments to prevent them from sucking on each
other’s tails, ears, and feet. A small catheter (premature
infant size or 5 French) and syringe work well for tube feeding.
The catheter can be purchased in most drugstores and the syringe
can be obtained from a veterinarian.

Before passing the tube down the kitten’s esophagus, carefully
mark the tube for the proper length. This is done by measuring
the tube from the last rib, behind which the stomach is located,
to the opening of the mouth. Tape can be used to mark the
section of catheter that reaches to the mouth. This mark
indicates the point at which the tube reaches the correct
position in the kitten’s stomach.

Lubricate the tube with warm water or formula before inserting
it into the kitten’s throat while the kitten is in an upright
position, with its head tilted slightly up, insert the tube
along the roof of the mouth. If the kitten begins to gag or you
feel resistance, remove the tube and try again. Continue to pass
the tube until you reach the mark on the tube. After
administering a small amount of warm water to make sure the tube
is in the right location, slowly administer the formula over a
two-minute period. Each week, remeasure the distance from the
last rib to the tip of the mouth and re-mark the tube; the
length will increase as the kitten grows.

A kitten has received an adequate supply of food when its
abdomen feels full, but not distended. Within three weeks,
kittens can learn to drink fluid from a dish. The weaning
process can be started when they are three to four weeks old by
adding small amounts of commercial cat food to the formula.

Feeding problems usually encountered by inexperienced handlers
are overfeeding or underfeeding. A sure sign of overfeeding is
diarrhea. The intensity of the problem is indicated by the color
and consistency of the stool. The color can range from yellowish
to grayish. A grayish diarrheic stool indicates a more severe
problem and may signal impending dehydration. Failure to gain
weight, excessive crying, listlessness, and shivering occur when
a kitten is underfed. The best criteria by which to determine if
the kitten is being properly fed are: a steady weight gain of
ten grams, or one-third of an ounce, per day-and a normal stool
(firm and yellowish). The number of stools is usually the same
as the number of feedings per day.

The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin
any course of treatment without consulting your regular
veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every
12 months.

Litter Train Your Bunny Rabbit

April 4th, 2008

One thing a lot of people don’t realize is that most rabbits can be litter box trained, just like a cat!

Basically, what you want to do is take advantage of your bunny’s natural tendency to deposit their droppings in just one or two places

* Start off by confining your bunny in just one room (even if you intend to give him the run of the whole house). A tiled floor is best to start (maybe in your kitchen)

* Make sure that the litter tray is easily accessible on at least one side, but with high enough sides all around to prevent spillage.

* For the litter itself,avoid clay and clumping brands (very toxic), as well as pine and cedar scented ones (proven dangerous in many studies). Personally I’ve always liked ‘Yesterday’s News’ brand for it’s absorbancy and ease of cleaning… but Cell Sorb, and Gentle Touch are also good.

* A standard cat litter box works pretty well,… you might want a covered one if your bunny likes to push the litter out (rascals!)

* Confinement and supervision is critical for the early stages. (It’s much kinder to go through this for a few weeks early on in a bunny’s life so that it can have a life time of roaming about and interacting with the family). So you should start in one room, and confine your bunny to its cage (with the litter box) for a bit until you learn where (s)he likes to do the business. If it’s in the litter box - great! If not, no worries, just move the box over that way.

* After you’ve achieved success IN the cage, it’s time to provide freedom. The key here is to do it only a little at a time, step by step (and be willing to go back a step if bunny makes a mistake).

* So give bunny a limited area of freedom in the room, and make sure (s)he knows where the litter box is. (Spend some time getter bunny to come to the box with treats and praise).

* Watch for signs that ‘the business’ is going to happen soon, get bunny to the box when it’s going to happen, and give ample praise and treats when it does.

* Just like you did in the cage, if bunny is making mistakes,… think of it as his or her way of telling you “the box belongs over here,… not where you put it”… and just move the box for bunny.

* Sometimes you actually need to have two or threelitter boxes in a larger space for a while… then you remove one at a time

* Punishment is NOT a good idea for mistakes with rabbits. It’s better to simply withold the rewards and treats and praise until you get the behavior you want. (And use a lot of patience)

* Some people have trouble because they’re not really sure how to know when their bunny is about to go. Establishing regular feeding times, and other routines will help with this problem. (Mostly though, you’ll get used to your bunny’s signs if you pay attention for a few weeks)

* Once your bunny is using the little boxes outside of the cage, the idea is to slowly expand their allowed roaming area, until you can confidently see your bunny anywhere in the house without worrying about ‘little presents’ (and smells).

Please note that litter training is almost never perfect… there are usually a few pellets left near the box which can be easily wiped away. (Bunnies aren’t perfect… and neither are we, right?)

Rabbit Care Secrets You can get the book here: http://www.rabbitsecrets.com/R.htm is the book with literally hundreds of “word of mouth” tips and tricks - secrets which are next to impossible to find in books and pet stores. This is the gold which only comes from years and years of hands on experience… including all the hard to find Rabbit information people just can’t locate with internet searches or trips to the library!

All The Things You Should Know About Your Dog - But Don’t Want To Talk About!

April 3rd, 2008

When you decided to get a dog, I’ll bet you daydreamed about the
great times you’d have with your new best friend. However, there
are many things that you need to consider in order to keep your
pooch happy and healthy. Things that perhaps you’d rather not
even think about!

When you go to the veterinarian he may ask you to bring along a
urine sample from your dog. How do you do this? Your dog surely
won’t be able to hit a sample bottle. The easiest way to
accomplish this is to tape a polythene container to the end of a
yard stick. While your dog is out doing his business, position
the container underneath his urine stream. This is easier to do
with male dogs than female dogs but you can usually get a sample
with one or two tries. Your veterinarian will want as fresh a
sample as possible so if you won’t be taking the sample to the
vet right away, keep it refrigerated until you bring it in. Your
veterinarian will be checking the sample for a variety of things
like bacteria and crystals. If bacteria is found it could mean
that your dog has a urinary tract infection and will most likely
require your dog to be put on a course of antibiotics. Crystals
form in the urine whenever minerals bind together, there are
several different kinds of crystals and these are most often
treated with prescription diets.

If your veterinarian asks for a stool sample it could mean that
he suspects that intestinal parasites are bothering your dog.
They can get these by eating fecal matter from another affected
animal, carcasses, or other unsavory things. You will want to
bring in a fresh sample. The doctor will examine it under the
microscope and look for telltale eggs of parasites. Commonest
parasites are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms.
Several of today’s monthly heartworm medications also protect
against roundworms and hookworms. If you live in the country or
your dog is outside for much of the day, he may need to be
treated with a tapeworm wormer on a quarterly basis. Other
diseases like coccidia, can also be seen under the microscope
from your dog’s stool sample.

What about anal glands? The anal glands are two small glands
located just on the inside of your dog’s anus that secrete a
foul smelling liquid. Usually the glands will be emptied when
your dog defecates. Unfortunately, in some dogs, the anal glands
become impacted and do not empty properly. If your dog is
urinating more than usual or licking his hind quarters more
often, there may be a problem with his anal glands. In this case
it’s important to make an appointment with your veterinarian who
will check the anal glands by gloved touch. If the anal glands
are full, he will be able to empty them manually. it is
possiblen, however, to learn how to do this yourself at home.
Some dogs require their anal glands be manually emptied
regularly. Some owners have their dog’s anal glands surgically
removed but if you choose to do this, discuss the possible
outcomes with your veterinarian as there is often a risk of
fecal incontinence if the surgery goes awry.

Occasionally in dogs, dandruff is just dandruff caused by skin
allergies, nutritional deficiencies, or improper grooming.
Sometimes, however, dandruff can be a sign of a parasite called
mange of which there are a few different types: a) Demodectic
Mange is caused by a mite which all dogs have but are rarely
adversely affected by it. Sometimes however, there can be an
overabundance of these mites which causes skin irritation and
hair loss. b) Sarcoptic Mange (also known as scabies) is caused
by another type of mite. A female mite buries herself in the
dog’s skin and lays her eggs there. When the eggs hatch, the
cycle begins again. This causes severe skin irritation and hair
loss in dogs but is easily treatable. c) Cheyletiella Mange is
caused by a large mite that lives on the surface of the dog’s
skin. This infestation is also known as ‘walking dandruff’. This
type of mange causes minor skin irritation but is easily
treatable with topical medication.

So, now you can talk about those unpleasant things! It’s
important that you are properly educated and can recognize signs
and symptoms so that you keep your dog as healthy as he can be.

Flea Control for Dogs

March 29th, 2008

There are many different methods of flea control.

If you have a dog, flea control is an important part of being a responsible owner. After all, no dog likes to have fleas, but often it happens anyway. For most dogs, an occasional flea dip, or a bath with flea-killing shampoo is enough to keep the problem under control. However, if that doesn’t work for flea control, it might be necessary to try other things.

Usually, the flea dip will be enough, however, if it isn’t, you should try giving your dog regular baths with flea shampoo. You can find high quality flea shampoo at any of your local pet stores, and it’s generally not too expensive. This is a great option for flea control if you have a dog who doesn’t mind baths, or who isn’t afraid of the water.

If this doesn’t work, you can also try getting a flea repellent collar. While it’s always possible just to put the flea collar on, most people choose to put both the flea collar and the dog’s normal collar on - that way you get flea control and the dog is identifiable if it gets lost.

There are other types of flea control that have also proven to be very effective. For example, there is a sort of spot-on type of flea control that is easily applied to the dog’s skin. Usually these types of flea control are effective for a month or more, however, they usually only affect adult fleas. It might be a good idea to get an egg stopper collar, which works to kill flea eggs. That way, you’ll kill both the adult fleas and the flea eggs, eliminating your dog’s flea problem.

If none of these treatments work for effective flea control, however, you should definitely talk to you vet. Your veterinarian may be able to recommend some even more effective treatments that aren’t sold over the counter. Hopefully, however, one of the many products that are on the market will help you to keep your dog flea free.

About the Author

http://www.dog-pictures.co.uk/ A dog lovers website with plenty of dog breed information and pictures.
http://www.dog-pictures.co.uk/dog-supplements/ provides dog supplements and dog health care information.

Cute Cat Names … And How To Find Them

March 20th, 2008

Cute cat names? Max is popular, Lady a favorite for queens. If you want your cat to have a more original name, you have to use your imagination. Or get some expert help.

‘Muffin. Kitty. Snowball. All stupid names that no self respecting cat would have - if it weren’t for the stupid human who gave it to him!’

These lines come from the hilarious, but now sold out Garfield Book of Cat Names by Jim Davis. The famous cartoon cat is a self declared enemy of silly names. In the book he gives advice on how to give your kitten a name to be proud of.

Popular tom cat names are Max, Sam, Charlie, Buddy, Toby, Rocky, Buster, Casey.

Popular cat names for females are Lady, Kitty, Chelsea, Molly, Maggie, Sadie, Abby, Dakota, Sasha.

There are also names that are just right for males and females, like Shadow or Smokey.

Although some people think cats ignore them when called, cats do listen - and very well. If you say its name often and clear it will soon recognize it. And if you consequently call your kitten’s name, it will associate the sound with food, play and other pleasant activities.

If your kitten comes from a planned mating between pedigree animals, you need to register the name. There are strict rules for this. Professional cat breeders are happy to tell you more.

Still, finding the right and preferably cute name is not easy.

Your family members will want to agree with it, and of course it should not sound silly once your cute little kitten becomes an adult cat.

Colors often give inspiration, or the coat. During the Clinton administration almost every American knew Socks, the First Cat of the United States, and it’s not difficult to understand why Clinton’s cat got this name.

A cat’s personality may also give a hint for a good name. This works best with older cats that you took from a shelter, because they usually have a clearly developed personality.

Celebrity names are also a good bet. There are cats that are called Elvis Presley or Marilyn (after Monroe). Best advice: choose a timeless celebrity. This week’s Top-20 star may be forgotten tomorrow. But your cat certainly won’t.

About the Author

Marc de Jong is the author of an acclaimed ebook on cat pregnancy and kitten care, called How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat. Buyers of the book get as a free bonus The Box Of Cat Names, a publication with over 15,000 cat names. More info: http://www.pregnant-cat-care.com